Items provided:
• Saddlebags
• ABS rack (comes pre-assembled)
• Hardware (metric) 24 pieces [Figure 1]
A (2) B C D 80mm bolt 95mm bolt 110mm bolt 80mm bolt washer washer washer washer washer shim shim shim locknut spacer spacer spacer locknut washer locknut locknut Top Right Front Right Rear Left Side Tools needed:
• Ratchet
• 13mm and 10mm socket
• 13mm and 10mm wrench
• 6 and 8 mm allen wrench
Assembly required: Mount the ABS rack to the subframe of the KLR with the provided hardware. Then secure the saddlebags into place.
Note: Spacers/shims included with rack are black. White spacers pictured are for photo purposes only.
Detailed instructions are shown below.
Step 1 - Remove Stock (OEM) Bolts:
The stock bolts need to be removed so the new mounting hardware can replace it. Figure 2 shows the location of the two A bolts, B bolt, and C bolt that need to be removed. Figure 3 depicts the left side of the KLR which has the D bolt that will be replaced as well. With these five bolts removed, the stock rack and exhaust will be loose.
Make sure the B and D metal spacers in between the stock rack and the rear fender are still in place. Once the rack is loose, the helmet lock needs to be removed. It is held on by two bolts. This will allow room for the ABS rack to fit.
Step 2 - Put ABS Rack On:
You will find that the ABS rack will only fit one direction. It might be easier to put the A bolts in first because they do not have as many pieces to line up. The bolt head and the big washer should be on the outside of the rack.
Install the hardware provided loosely at first until all the bolts have been secured with a locknut. The bolt head, a washer, and shim should all be on the outside of the rack for bolts B, and C. The thick side of the shim should be on top. Notice in Figure 5 that the B and C spacer have the longest side on the bottom with the angled end against the rack. All spacers should be positioned this way. This will also position the notch on the C spacer to fit around the fender. The D spacer fits inside the support brace.
Step 3 - Securing The Rack:
Make sure the washers are placed at the end of each bolt prior to the locknut. The A bolts have small washers that are on the bottom side of the rear fender.
With all of the hardware lined up with the appropriate holes, you can start tightening up the bolts. The spacers will naturally want to rotate so the angled end matches the slope of the rack. You may need to manually rotate each spacer so the two angles fit better.
Step 4 - Securing The Saddlebags:
Fisher Saddlebags™ do not use long straps with hooks to secure the saddlebags because of the potential for the strap to come loose and get caught in the wheel or chain. Instead the saddlebags are secured to the ABS rack with sewn in pockets and turn-buckles.
The side saddlebags have a front inside pocket that slips over the front of the ABS rack. There is a single turn-buckle at the front of each saddlebag on the inside (Figure 6). There is also a flap in the back that secures to the turn-buckles mounted on the rack. Figure 7 shows this in detail.
The top bag is secured by a pocket in the back that slips over the back end of the rack. Since it is sewn to the other two bags, it needs no other fastening devices.
With the rack bolted on to the subframe, the bags will be easy to put on. The simplest way to put the bags on is to:
1. Slip the top bag pocket over the back of rack
2. Secure the front left saddlebag turn-buckle
3. Slip the left saddlebag pocket over the rack
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for right saddlebag
5. Fold the back flaps over the 4 turn-buckles and
....twist each turn-buckle 90 degrees
The ABS rack can be installed or removed in a few minutes.
The saddlebags can easily be installed or removed in less than a minute.
*If there is a lot of weight in the saddlebags, it is a good idea to strap a bungee cord around to keep the bags more stable.