Items provided:
•Saddlebags
•ABS rack (comes pre-assembled)
•Hardware (metric) 26 pieces [Figure 1]
A B C D (2) 90mm bolt 95mm bolt 130mm bolt 25mm bolt washer washer washer big washer shim shim shim small washer spacer spacer spacer locknut washer washer washer locknut locknut locknut Left Rear Left Front Right Side Top Tools needed:
• Ratchet
• 13mm and 10mm socket
• 13mm and 10mm wrench
• Drill & 8mm drill bit (or 21/64" bit, 5/16" bit is close)
Assembly required: Mount the ABS rack to the subframe of the DR-Z with the provided hardware. Then secure the saddlebags into place.
Note: Spacers/shims included with rack are black.
Detailed instructions are shown below.
Step 1 - Drill Out Hole:
The first thing that needs to be done is drill out the existing hole in front of the helmet lock, A. This is the only hole that needs to be drilled. The hole needs to fit the 8mm width of the A bolt provided. This hole can be filed out if you have a round file, but drilling is the easiest. An 8mm or 21/64" drill bit creates the correct size of hole, but a 5/16" bit is more common and can be used if the hole is 'egged' out a bit. Otherwise, a 5/16" hole is not large enough for the 8mm bolt to go through. Figure 2 shows the location of the hole to be drilled as well as the location of where the B bolt goes and both D bolts.
Step 2 - Bolt ABS Rack On:
You will find that the ABS rack will only fit one direction. The top front follows the curve of the seat and the bolt holes will only line up if the rack is positioned this way.
It might be easier to put the D bolts in first as they do not have as many pieces to line up. The bolt head and the big washer should be on the outside of the rack.
Install the hardware provided loosely at first until all the bolts have been secured with a locknut. The bolt head, washer, and shim should all be on the outside of the rack for bolts A, B, and C. Notice in Figure 3, the C shim has its thickest side on the top with the angled end against the rack. All shims should be positioned this way. The spacers should be placed in between the rack and the subframe with the slanted side facing the rack (Figure 4).
Step 3 - Securing The Rack:
Make sure the washers are placed at the end of each bolt prior to the locknut. The D bolts have small washers that are on the bottom side of the rear fender, as seen in Figure 4.
With all of the hardware lined up with the appropriate holes, you can start tightening up the bolts. The spacers will naturally want to rotate so the angled end matches the slope of the rack. You may need to manually rotate each spacer so the two angles fit better. The longer side of the spacer should be on the bottom for proper fit (rotated opposite of the shim).
Step 4 - Securing The Saddlebags:
Fisher Saddlebags™ avoid using straps that can come loose and get caught in the wheel or chain. Instead the saddlebags are secured to the ABS rack with sewn in pockets and turn-buckles.
The side saddlebags have a front pocket that slips over the front of the ABS rack. There is a single turn-buckle at the front of each saddlebag on the inside (Figure 5). There are also flaps in the back that secure to the turn-buckles mounted on the rack. Figure 6 shows this in detail.
The top bag is secured by a pocket in the back that slips over the back end of the rack. Since it is sewn to the other two bags, it needs no other fastening devices.
With the rack bolted on to the subframe, the bags will be easy to put on. The simplest way to put the bags on is to:
1. Slip the top bag pocket over the back of rack
2. Secure the front left saddlebag turn-buckle
3. Slip the left saddlebag pocket over the rack
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for right saddlebag
5. Fold the back flaps over the 4 turn-buckles and
....twist each turn-buckle 90 degrees
The ABS rack can be installed or removed in a few minutes.
The saddlebags can easily be installed or removed in less than a minute.
*If there is a lot of weight in the saddlebags, it is a good idea to strap a bungee cord around to keep the bags more stable.